Tuesday, March 29, 2011

picnic blanket DIY

DIY: Patchwork Picnic Blanket from centsationalgirl

March 29, 2011

I’ve had this vision in my head for months now, a vision of crafting a picnic blanket that we could bring on our outdoor adventures, something with a country feel, but with fresh modern color too. We’re a picnicking tribe on the weekends when sunny skies appear, whether we head to the coast, the local park or ballgame, or just movies in the park. Having a cozy picnic blanket is always ideal!

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I’ve always wanted a patchwork picnic blanket, and last weekend I finally got around to making this one. I absolutely love the bright colors, the mix of blues and pinks with orange and turquoise. The patchwork nature also has that quilted nostalgic feel.

cg patchwork picnic blanket pattern

There is one final bonus beyond the handmade appeal. This version is water resistant due to the vinyl tablecloth sewn to the underside. It makes for one blanket I can throw down on any lawn, moist or dry. It also means it still multitasks as a tablecloth !!

waterproof underside

How to Make a Water Resistant Patchwork Picnic Blanket:

Supplies You Will Need: complementary fabrics cut into squares; vinyl tablecloth (or other water resistant fabric)*; light quilt batting; measuring tape; pins; thread; scissors; needle; sewing machine. *I found my white vinyl table pad at Kmart for $8, and my cotton fabrics at Joann’s Fabrics.

picnic blanket supplies

There’s no real magic formula to choosing fabrics, just look for patterns that appeal to you that share similar colors, whether it’s classic stripes or ginghams, or modern geometrics or florals.

Prewash all of your cottons before you start, then cut your fabric swatches into squares. Since I used a 60” wide x 82” long vinyl tablecloth as my base, I wanted three 20” squares across and four 20” squares in length, so my 12 fabric squares were all cut to 21”, allowing ½” seam allowance on all sides.

cut 21 inch squares

Faux croc silver mini measuring tape, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. 1 inch, 2 inches, 3 inches . . .

Once they’re cut, lay all of your squares down on a large surface and decide where they should fit in your final pattern.

lay fabric on table

Obviously, the next step is sewing your squares together, so I just started pinning.

pin together no

Don’t do that cause it ain’t that simple.

I ended up with this puckered ridiculous mess.

messy corner

Enter seam ripper.

Cue frustration.

Then I thought, well obviously someone else has figured out how to get the perfect seams and how to get your points to match. Quilters must have the secret I reasoned. So I went online. Don’t you just love the internet? When I was young, it was “Hey kid, go look it up in an encyclopedia.” Now we have Google. Amen.

I found a helpful video on how to nest patchwork quilt seams and learned a very useful technique on how to get your points to match. Sound completely intimidating right? “Nest. Patchwork. Quilt. Seams.” Aaaaahhh! I admit, I was afraid. Very afraid. But I watched, and listened, and learned. You quilters sure know what you’re talking about.

Looky loo at my crisp points!

nested seams

Never thought I’d hear myself say that. Crispy points! Crispy points!!!

OK, I’m done.

No I’m not.

Here’s how to get those coveted oh-so-crisp points:

Work with four squares at a time and decide your fabric placement.

44

Flip them upside down, and pin squares 1 and 4, and then 2 and 3 together, then sew those sections on sewing machine.

pin 1 and 4

Match up your new seams to each other, then (like in the video) pin them together, and hem for the perfect matching points. Seeeew easy. Hardy har.

match up seams together

Work your way around, adding two more sections at a time, following the nesting corners method. Then pat yourself on the back and have a glass of wine.

Next, flip your completed patchwork cotton patchwork pattern upside down, add the batting on top of that, and then your vinyl tablecloth (also flipped inside out). No pic, sorry, it was late at night. Sew it all together all around, but leave one square open to flip it right side out.

To hold it together if and when it goes through the wash, either sew along the seams between the patchwork pieces, or tack together with a few stitches by hand (like I did) where your fabric meets in each corner.

hand sew corners

The last step is those charming colorful ties, it’s the easiest part, you’re almost done! With your fabric scraps, make a long tie (approximately 30” long) by flipping a 3” strip inside out and sewing one long seam. Work a safety pin through to flip the fabric right side out, then seam both edges so it will remain flat after it goes through the wash.

ties 1

Seam the edges, then attach both ties to that final unfinished edge of your last square. Close up that last square of your picnic blanket after those ties are attached.

ties 2

The nicest thing about those charming colorful ties you make?

cg striped floral ties

The perfect package they make at the end of your picnic.

cg patchwork picnic blanket tied up

This was a time consuming project, considering my learning curve. It took me 6 hours over two days from start to finish, but it was completely worth it for this new keepsake.

cg picnic blanket up close

This classic picnic basket was a fun find from an antique store, and we pack it with plates, napkins and goodies on our local adventures, even those as near as our own backyard.

�

Now let those warm weather outings begin!

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Enchiladas from CreationsbyKara

Black Bean Chicken Enchiladas

Sauce:
2 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup flour
1 cup milk
1 cup chicken broth
2 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp cumin
Half of a 4oz can of diced green chilies

Filling:
2 cups shredded cooked chicken (about 2 breasts)
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
2 green onions, sliced
1/3 cup sour cream
1/2 cup Monteray Jack cheese (or other type)
Half of a 4oz can of diced green chilies
1/4 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp pepper
About 1/2 cup of the sauce
8-10 flour tortillas
1 cup mozzarella cheese
For sauce: Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Whisk in flour, then milk and chicken broth. Add garlic, cumin, and half the can of green chilies. Stirring constantly, bring to a boil and boil for at least one minute. Set aside.
For filling: Combine all ingredients in a large bowl, adding enough of the sauce to make it all stick together.
Spread a thin layer of sauce on the bottom of a greased 9×13″ pan. Fill each tortilla with about 1/3 cup of filling, and place seam side down on top of the sauce. Pour remaining sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the cheese. Bake at 375° for about 25 minutes, or till hot and bubbly.

Notes:
-You can substitute your favorite kind of cheese.
-I like the crunchy cheese on the top, so I bake mine on the top rack of my oven.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Installing a Font

From: http://jonesdesigncompany.com/create/fonts

What good is a downloaded font if you don’t know how to install it? So here is a quick tutorial on how to add a font. Keep in mind I am working on a PC, so there may be variations on a mac {if this tutorial doesn’t work for your set-up, I’m sure there are others you could find by googling ‘installing a font’}.

image

Select the font you wish to download and click the download button.

image

Click OK to open with the default program.shot 4

It will automatically pop up. Now you need to export the file {extract}, so click on that button.

shot 5

You can decide where you want the font to open up {I chose my desktop} then click ok.

shot 1

When I go to my desktop, there it is.

image

Now open up your control panel, and then your font folder.

shot 2

Now drag and drop the new font into the font folder.

shot 3

Now you can use the font. I opened up a word document, selected the font tab and found my new font in the list.

image

image

Friday, February 18, 2011

Recovering a CarSeat



First of all, I purchased the yellow fabric at HB Fabrics here. (Alexander Henry Amelie in Yellow, Matisse Collection) And I bought the gray fabric here. (Ty Pennington, Lace Taupe) I actually purchased the thicker Decor Fabric in the grey because I knew I'd be using some of it for the canopy, and wanted it thicker. It has a nice sateen finish and is very soft. But the Ty Pennington collection also comes in the regular weight cotton.

I purchased 2 yards of the yellow and 1 yard of the gray. But the amount of fabric you'll need depends on how much fabric you need for your canopy, how much of the old canopy/car seat fabrics you use, how much of each color you use on the car seat, etc.
. . . . . . . . . . .


I didn't hate the color scheme/design of this car seat........but it wasn't exactly what I wanted. And even though the fabric was a bit slick, and would have wiped well, my babies tend to be sweaty and the fabric wasn't very breathable.

**I used the exact padding and sizing.......keeping the cover true to its fit inside of the car seat. So it is exactly the same size, fits the exact same way, and will be just as safe as the original.


Before taking anything apart, I took pictures of the car seat from every angle, so if I had any questions later on, I could take a look at how something looked.


Then, I started picking apart each piece of the car seat, using a seam ripper to carefully un-sew each seam.


Each piece had a top layer of fabric and then a layer of batting. I had to pick apart each fabric piece from its batting piece as well.


Then I used each fabric piece as a pattern and cut out each piece in the color that I wanted.
**You'll see that the gray piece at the bottom (where the feet would go) didn't make it to the final car seat cover. I changed my mind at the end and swapped it for the yellow fabric.

Then I placed each pattern piece with its appropriate batting piece, pinned them together with the fabric facing right side up, and zig-zagged around the entire piece.


Then I made seams in the appropriate places, just like on the original pieces. Seams such as these just allow the cover to bend at the appropriate spot.


Now your car seat cover may look differently in some spots, but mine has a hole where a narrow strap comes out to be able to adjust the tightness of the shoulder straps. I took the original fabric piece, placed it on top, and traced the size of the opening.


As you deconstruct a tricky area such as this, take pictures and pay close attention how to put it back together.

Mine had another piece of fabric that was used to finish off the opening. So I recreated mine in the same way. I used the original fabric piece (shown above) to draw the right square size on there too.


Then I placed the fabric square right side down, lined up the 2 squares, and sewed right on top of the traced square shape.


Then I cut the square open, trimmed down the edges, then cut slits in towards the corners of the square, allowing for turning the fabric in the next step.


So next, shove the fabric through the hole, flipping the fabric out to the back side.


Pull the fabric square towards the back, nice and snug, and pin in place. Then sew around the square opening.


If you turn this piece over, you'll see the square on the back side. I trimmed the square with pinking shears, to help avoid fraying. But you could also zig-zag the edges before attaching the square several steps ago.


Now, onto the center piece of the car seat, where the slits for the straps go.

I placed the original piece over the top of my new piece, and marked little dots at each side of each slit with a pencil.


Can you see the little dots that I used to mark the width of each opening?


I then used those dots as a guide, and made button holes that were the same width and the same location as the original openings.


Then I used a seam ripper to slice the button holes open.


The rest of my pieces were basic, with no other tricky parts to it.

So I referred back to my first picture, and started putting the pieces back together. I used pins each time I put 2 pieces together, and then sewed it together........keeping things very precise.

You want to put the top of the seat together by itself......and then the bottom section.


And then sew the 2 sections together. This can be tricky to maneuver under your needle, so do it slowly.


The view from the back side.


Next, I took some shortcuts. I used the original fitted pieces, that keep the cover tucked into place over the car seat. The color matched perfectly and saved me some time. Perfect. But you may need to use your original pieces to cut out new ones that match your new fabric........but I just don't have pictures showing that step.

So I just skipped to adding the fitted sleeve to the top of the seat cover, with right sides together..........


.........and to the foot section of the car seat as well.


Then I used the original bias tape (because, again, the color was perfect) and attached it to the car seat, all the way around the raw edges. You can either buy some or make some of your own if you don't use the original stuff. (Need help making bias tape? Click here.)



Now slide your cover onto your seat.......it should fit exactly the same way your original one did.



Are you ready to tackle the canopy?

Make sure to take pictures just like you did with the car seat cover. You don't want to forget how anything looked.


**If you are taking apart an old GRACO canopy, the main plastic pieces of the canopy attach like shown in the image below, right at the center of each piece. You will have to hold on either side of the center of the arch, and tug really hard to pull them apart. Then slide them out from each end of the canopy.


Then I picked all of the pieces apart, just like I did with the car seat cover above. Each section has a light pink piece of satin material on the underside that I peeled off the top piece......but didn't take a picture to show you.



Another shortcut. I used some of the original pieces in my final canopy.....simply because they were the exact color I needed. And each piece of the canopy was double layered, so I used the main pieces as pattern pieces to cut out the new pieces in the colors that I needed. And then I used double-sided-iron-on-adhesive to seal the two pieces together, with wrong sides together. (Sealing these 2 layers together for each section, will also give the canopy a sturdier structure.)

But if you are completely re-making your canopy, remember that you will need to cut out 2 pieces of fabric for each canopy section........and then seal them together with wrong sides together, with the adhesive. (Keep in mind that you may want a thicker/sturdier fabric for your canopy, to give it more shape and to protect the baby a bit more.)


My canopy had 2 little tube sections down the center, that housed little plastic piping pieces. So I made sure to duplicate those strips of fabric, sewed them into tubes the same way as the originals.......


........slid in the plastic forms, to be sure they fit............


..........then sewed the tubes right to the center section of the canopy (just like it was done on the original canopy), with the raw edges matched up with the outer raw edges of the center canopy strip.


Then I slid the plastic pieces back in...



........and sewed off each end with a zig-zag stitch, keeping the plastic pieces securely inside.


Now, the back piece of my canopy has a casing to slide the main plastic structure of the canopy. I cut the strip for the structure just like the original, then serged the raw edge (you can zig--zag it too).


Then I folded under each end of the strip, then sewed along each long edge of the casing, securing it right to this section of the canopy. (Make sure your are re-creating the same casing as the original.......so that the canopy will fit the same way. So cut your pieces precisely and remember to take many pictures.)



The front of my canopy, has a little extra fold down strip, which is how the front casing is actually attached. So I re-created it the same way as the original (and serged the lower raw edge like the one above), but this time, the casing was sewn with the right side of the fabric facing down. And remember to tuck the ends under again like shown above.


See, this is my very front piece, with the gray color on the outside.


The next step, is to attach that front strip to the next canopy section.

I placed the two strips together with right sides together, then sewed along that edge.


Then I folded that casing piece away from that more narrow front canopy strip.


Then, I opened up these 2 canopy pieces, with the bottom side facing up. I folded over that casing section, along with the raw edges underneath that casing, and sewed the casing down to the bigger canopy section. (Make sure it lays flat and that you sew evenly, as the seam will show from the other side.)


Attach the other canopy sections in the same way, creating the domed shape.


Then use the original bias tape like I did, purchase some, or make your own (click here for help) and encase each raw seam where each canopy section was sewn together.


Now, again, remember that not every canopy style is the same, but mine has a little extra piece of plastic boning along the front. This helps that little extra addition to the canopy at the front to keep it's shape. So, because the next step is to attach bias tape all the way around the canopy, you'll use the bias tape as a casing for teh boning along the front for this style of canopy. So I attached the bias tape along the front only.......


.........then slid the plastic boning on in.


Then I finished attaching the bias tape the rest of the way around the canopy.


Now, if you have a GRACO brand car seat, the main plastic pieces attach like this right at the center of the arch of the canopy. (If you were taking your canopy apart, you would need to pull it apart, by tugging really hard.) To put back into the canopy, slide one piece into each side, and slide each piece back into each other.


Then attach the plastic pieces to the car seat........allowing your canopy to stand up.


Last step......the seat belt shoulder covers.

I took apart each shoulder cover and cut out new fabric pieces......just like above. (If you're wanting to create your own shoulder covers from scratch, click here for tutorial.)


I then zig-zagged around each fabric piece, attaching it to the original piece of batting.


Then, I made my own bias tape (click here for help) and attached it to the raw edges of each shoulder cover. And lastly, I attached the velcro to each strap......just like the original ones.


And that is it. Whew. I know, a lot of steps.


But pat yourself on that hard working back of yours, because you just created your own custom car seat cover and canopy.

Wow.

First of all, I purchased the yellow fabric at HB Fabrics here. (Alexander Henry Amelie in Yellow, Matisse Collection) And I bought the gray fabric here. (Ty Pennington, Lace Taupe) I actually purchased the thicker Decor Fabric in the grey because I knew I'd be using some of it for the canopy, and wanted it thicker. It has a nice sateen finish and is very soft. But the Ty Pennington collection also comes in the regular weight cotton.

I purchased 2 yards of the yellow and 1 yard of the gray. But the amount of fabric you'll need depends on how much fabric you need for your canopy, how much of the old canopy/car seat fabrics you use, how much of each color you use on the car seat, etc.
. . . . . . . . . . .


I didn't hate the color scheme/design of this car seat........but it wasn't exactly what I wanted. And even though the fabric was a bit slick, and would have wiped well, my babies tend to be sweaty and the fabric wasn't very breathable.

**I used the exact padding and sizing.......keeping the cover true to its fit inside of the car seat. So it is exactly the same size, fits the exact same way, and will be just as safe as the original.


Before taking anything apart, I took pictures of the car seat from every angle, so if I had any questions later on, I could take a look at how something looked.


Then, I started picking apart each piece of the car seat, using a seam ripper to carefully un-sew each seam.


Each piece had a top layer of fabric and then a layer of batting. I had to pick apart each fabric piece from its batting piece as well.


Then I used each fabric piece as a pattern and cut out each piece in the color that I wanted.
**You'll see that the gray piece at the bottom (where the feet would go) didn't make it to the final car seat cover. I changed my mind at the end and swapped it for the yellow fabric.

Then I placed each pattern piece with its appropriate batting piece, pinned them together with the fabric facing right side up, and zig-zagged around the entire piece.


Then I made seams in the appropriate places, just like on the original pieces. Seams such as these just allow the cover to bend at the appropriate spot.


Now your car seat cover may look differently in some spots, but mine has a hole where a narrow strap comes out to be able to adjust the tightness of the shoulder straps. I took the original fabric piece, placed it on top, and traced the size of the opening.


As you deconstruct a tricky area such as this, take pictures and pay close attention how to put it back together.

Mine had another piece of fabric that was used to finish off the opening. So I recreated mine in the same way. I used the original fabric piece (shown above) to draw the right square size on there too.


Then I placed the fabric square right side down, lined up the 2 squares, and sewed right on top of the traced square shape.


Then I cut the square open, trimmed down the edges, then cut slits in towards the corners of the square, allowing for turning the fabric in the next step.


So next, shove the fabric through the hole, flipping the fabric out to the back side.


Pull the fabric square towards the back, nice and snug, and pin in place. Then sew around the square opening.


If you turn this piece over, you'll see the square on the back side. I trimmed the square with pinking shears, to help avoid fraying. But you could also zig-zag the edges before attaching the square several steps ago.


Now, onto the center piece of the car seat, where the slits for the straps go.

I placed the original piece over the top of my new piece, and marked little dots at each side of each slit with a pencil.


Can you see the little dots that I used to mark the width of each opening?


I then used those dots as a guide, and made button holes that were the same width and the same location as the original openings.


Then I used a seam ripper to slice the button holes open.


The rest of my pieces were basic, with no other tricky parts to it.

So I referred back to my first picture, and started putting the pieces back together. I used pins each time I put 2 pieces together, and then sewed it together........keeping things very precise.

You want to put the top of the seat together by itself......and then the bottom section.


And then sew the 2 sections together. This can be tricky to maneuver under your needle, so do it slowly.


The view from the back side.


Next, I took some shortcuts. I used the original fitted pieces, that keep the cover tucked into place over the car seat. The color matched perfectly and saved me some time. Perfect. But you may need to use your original pieces to cut out new ones that match your new fabric........but I just don't have pictures showing that step.

So I just skipped to adding the fitted sleeve to the top of the seat cover, with right sides together..........


.........and to the foot section of the car seat as well.


Then I used the original bias tape (because, again, the color was perfect) and attached it to the car seat, all the way around the raw edges. You can either buy some or make some of your own if you don't use the original stuff. (Need help making bias tape? Click here.)



Now slide your cover onto your seat.......it should fit exactly the same way your original one did.



Are you ready to tackle the canopy?

Make sure to take pictures just like you did with the car seat cover. You don't want to forget how anything looked.


**If you are taking apart an old GRACO canopy, the main plastic pieces of the canopy attach like shown in the image below, right at the center of each piece. You will have to hold on either side of the center of the arch, and tug really hard to pull them apart. Then slide them out from each end of the canopy.


Then I picked all of the pieces apart, just like I did with the car seat cover above. Each section has a light pink piece of satin material on the underside that I peeled off the top piece......but didn't take a picture to show you.



Another shortcut. I used some of the original pieces in my final canopy.....simply because they were the exact color I needed. And each piece of the canopy was double layered, so I used the main pieces as pattern pieces to cut out the new pieces in the colors that I needed. And then I used double-sided-iron-on-adhesive to seal the two pieces together, with wrong sides together. (Sealing these 2 layers together for each section, will also give the canopy a sturdier structure.)

But if you are completely re-making your canopy, remember that you will need to cut out 2 pieces of fabric for each canopy section........and then seal them together with wrong sides together, with the adhesive. (Keep in mind that you may want a thicker/sturdier fabric for your canopy, to give it more shape and to protect the baby a bit more.)


My canopy had 2 little tube sections down the center, that housed little plastic piping pieces. So I made sure to duplicate those strips of fabric, sewed them into tubes the same way as the originals.......


........slid in the plastic forms, to be sure they fit............


..........then sewed the tubes right to the center section of the canopy (just like it was done on the original canopy), with the raw edges matched up with the outer raw edges of the center canopy strip.


Then I slid the plastic pieces back in...



........and sewed off each end with a zig-zag stitch, keeping the plastic pieces securely inside.


Now, the back piece of my canopy has a casing to slide the main plastic structure of the canopy. I cut the strip for the structure just like the original, then serged the raw edge (you can zig--zag it too).


Then I folded under each end of the strip, then sewed along each long edge of the casing, securing it right to this section of the canopy. (Make sure your are re-creating the same casing as the original.......so that the canopy will fit the same way. So cut your pieces precisely and remember to take many pictures.)



The front of my canopy, has a little extra fold down strip, which is how the front casing is actually attached. So I re-created it the same way as the original (and serged the lower raw edge like the one above), but this time, the casing was sewn with the right side of the fabric facing down. And remember to tuck the ends under again like shown above.


See, this is my very front piece, with the gray color on the outside.


The next step, is to attach that front strip to the next canopy section.

I placed the two strips together with right sides together, then sewed along that edge.


Then I folded that casing piece away from that more narrow front canopy strip.


Then, I opened up these 2 canopy pieces, with the bottom side facing up. I folded over that casing section, along with the raw edges underneath that casing, and sewed the casing down to the bigger canopy section. (Make sure it lays flat and that you sew evenly, as the seam will show from the other side.)


Attach the other canopy sections in the same way, creating the domed shape.


Then use the original bias tape like I did, purchase some, or make your own (click here for help) and encase each raw seam where each canopy section was sewn together.


Now, again, remember that not every canopy style is the same, but mine has a little extra piece of plastic boning along the front. This helps that little extra addition to the canopy at the front to keep it's shape. So, because the next step is to attach bias tape all the way around the canopy, you'll use the bias tape as a casing for teh boning along the front for this style of canopy. So I attached the bias tape along the front only.......


.........then slid the plastic boning on in.


Then I finished attaching the bias tape the rest of the way around the canopy.


Now, if you have a GRACO brand car seat, the main plastic pieces attach like this right at the center of the arch of the canopy. (If you were taking your canopy apart, you would need to pull it apart, by tugging really hard.) To put back into the canopy, slide one piece into each side, and slide each piece back into each other.


Then attach the plastic pieces to the car seat........allowing your canopy to stand up.


Last step......the seat belt shoulder covers.

I took apart each shoulder cover and cut out new fabric pieces......just like above. (If you're wanting to create your own shoulder covers from scratch, click here for tutorial.)


I then zig-zagged around each fabric piece, attaching it to the original piece of batting.


Then, I made my own bias tape (click here for help) and attached it to the raw edges of each shoulder cover. And lastly, I attached the velcro to each strap......just like the original ones.


And that is it. Whew. I know, a lot of steps.


But pat yourself on that hard working back of yours, because you just created your own custom car seat cover and canopy.

Wow.